Size that counts: Plus Size Models

What do you think of when you hear "plus size" model? Do you think of someone unattractive or slightly overweight? Or perhaps someone with sensual curves, a la Marilyn Monroe?

I'm not writing this post to cause a debate or make a statement or take a stance. Instead, I just wanted to share a couple of thoughts on my interactions with the topic. What got me thinking about this was earlier this year I was photographing this stunning woman (seen below) from the model agency Muse NYC. I love Muse. They have great women, are very professional, and are great to work with-- a fantastic agency. I was excited when I got to do a natural beauty test with Kristyna. A natural beauty test means that I am taking photos of her for fun (not publication) and basically just this model as she appears in every day life-- no crazy hair, makeup, or wardrobe. These shots are more about the essence of the model, her soul, her personality and her beauty. In my avant garde shoots the images are much more graphic and about current fashion trends. Natural beauty tests are really just me, the model and my camera.


Kristyna, Muse NYC agency, photo by Lindsay Adler

When I was photographing Kristyna, she made mention that she had been added to Muse's new division: Plus Size. I stared at her a bit confused... She was tall, and striking... and had a beautiful body. I asked her what size she was, and she was a women's size 10. At first I was a bit appalled, since that is certainly not what I had considered plus size and that makes most women I know fit into that category. That being said, I absolutely understand how that makes sense. When a designer makes a collection, they design this collection at 'sample size'. This is typically size 0-4. The reason that there is a typical size is that when you only have the resources to make a single piece for your collection, you want to be sure it fits the typical model. For this reason there is a consistent model size. That way I know when my wardrobe stylist pulls clothes from a showroom (gets clothing for one of my shoots), I can gaurentee that it will fit my model. They all have general measurements from height, hips, waist and even shoe size. If a woman is striking but some of her measurements don't fit sample size, then she might work with a physical trainer to help her get to that size. Otherwise, she can model but not runway or for fashion. That's just how it works.

Kristyna, Muse NYC agency, photo by Lindsay Adler

Recently a lot of modeling agencies have realized the importance of the 'plus size' market. Modeling agencies don't make their money from having models in Vogue or bizarre fashion editorials in big magazines. In fact, that pays almost nothing. The big money makers are in commercial advertising and catalog. Commercial advertising has had a big push for plus size models as this segment of the industry grows, and therefore agencies are adapting to this demand. One of my favorite photographers of all time has even recently done some nude images of famous plus size models, giving a nod to this major industry change.

Here are a few major agencies that have plus size divisions:





Here is where I currently stand in the situation. I photograph professional models all the time. Yet what I find interesting is many of them are not what I would traditionally find attractive anywhere other than in the modeling and fashion world. The professional models I photograph are  often very tall, have small chests, and are almost alien-esque in their features. They may have big eyes, or unusual bone structure... but either way they are striking creatures.  In fact, as you may know, many of these models without makeup are far from what we call 'traditionally' beautiful. That being said, their bone structure allows them to be molded with clothing and makeup into whatever vision I have for them. When I shoot for my style, I am generally not intending you to connect with the personality and soul of my model. Instead, my models are meant to be almost 'too perfect' and that help make my images about the clothing, graphic lines and other elements of high impact. You aren't meant to find them sexually attractive or even relate to them. I turn them into pieces of art.

In 'real life' the women I find alluring and attractive are completely different than what draws me to models, and thats okay. I love women with curves and sensuality. When I look at fine art nudes or boudoir photography, its not the stick thin women that captivate me, but instead women with shape and a curvaceous femininity to them. I do not find these differences between these two aesthetics to be contradictory. The purpose of my fashion model selection does not require the same attributes as a women that we outside of fashion find attractive.

Kristyna is one of the most striking women (in person) I have met, and she photographs beautifully. You can see some of the images I made of her in the couple of hours we spent together. Her natural beauty, without over the top hair and makeup is striking. I am planning a couple upcoming shoots where that are vintage-inspired... these shoots are much more playful and you are meant to interact with the subject. In this case, a plus size model or more shapely woman might be perfect. In other words, it all depends on the goals of your shoot. When I want your eye to be drawn more to the graphic elements and impact of the photo, I will select a more traditional fashion model. If I want you to connect with the beauty and soul of the model, then size doesn't matter. Its all about the type of beauty you are seeking and the role the model plays in creating that beauty.



Kristyna, Muse NYC agency, photo by Lindsay Adler
Kristyna, Muse NYC agency, photo by Lindsay Adler
Kristyna, Muse NYC agency, photo by Lindsay Adler
Kristyna, Muse NYC agency, photo by Lindsay Adler
Kristyna, Muse NYC agency, photo by Lindsay Adler
Kristyna, Muse NYC agency, photo by Lindsay Adler
Kristyna, Muse NYC agency, photo by Lindsay Adler
Kristyna, Muse NYC agency, photo by Lindsay Adler





  • Bob Wickham

    Great to see that normal healthy women, like Kristyna, are being recognised as real. Now if we can just get models to smile and actually look like they enjoy wearing the clothes they’re supposed to be selling.

  • Alix

    Gorgeous head shots of a natural beauty! I wish you had included some body shots to help back your point, we want to see those beautiful and sensual curves! :)

    • Lindsay Adler

      Glad you like them! Just so you all know, I wasn’t avoiding shooting her body. I had planned this solely as a beauty test… it was just meant to be face shots (because I thought she was so beautiful) and this was planned far before I knew she was ‘plus size’. In other words, I didn’t have any clothing or styling prepared– aka we only did close up shots.

  • Howard

    Ditto, what Bob said.

  • Eje Gustafsson

    Lovely pictures (what else do we expect from you Lindsay). It’s sad when the fashion industry consider a size 10 plus size. Go into a plus size store and the smallest sizes you will find is generally 16. I find it sad that the fashion industry continue to push the size 0-4 to sell their clothes. In real world I believe size 16 is more common than size 4. Seen so many plus size clothings that are totally unflattering or they are not designed well big women that have big busts and the like.

    But I’m glad to see that the fashion industry is starting to move the right way and acknowledge bigger sizes and less photoshopping slimming down to unnatural sizes.

    I hope you will do a follow up to this shoot with some more body shoots, can’t wait to see your work because it’s beautiful as always. (PS I am a big fan of curves and if you want real curves you often have to go with “plus size” ladies 😉 )

  • Pamela

    Nicely written, Lindsay. Good information.

  • Murray

    Hi Lindsay,
    These are great images of a naturally beautiful woman. My favourite is the colour profile shot with lace, but they are all lovely.

    I’ve been watching the Fashion Flair training from CL, well worth the $99 !

    I look forward to seeing more of your personal work.


  • silver account

    This is the beauty of plus size women. We all look different, are shaped different, and are built different. While myself and others challenge the brands to give more diversity in the plus size modeling side of things, understand the challenge should be directed to the brands who are trying to hear you. NOT THE MODELS.

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